Grade: 5a, 130m .First climbed on 12.7.2021 Andrej in Jasna Pečjak 1.repeat Marko Žličar, Matic in Sašo
Characteristics: bolted multi pitch route of constant grade
Ascent: From Vršiča mountain pass (could be reached by car from Kranjska gora or Trenta) straight up to the SE wall of Šitova glava (20 min)
Description: Lower part of the route is to the left of Pokljuska smer, crossing it in the middle and continuing straight up to the right of Pokljuska smer. First pitch could be skipped walking around it as it is just a grade 2 easy climbing (20m). Real climbing starts left up in a dihedral that leads through the bushes (4x). then straight up in a overhanging chimney and 5m to the right (4c 3x) till you reach the belay point. From the belay towards the left and up over a crack and later slab (5a, 4c, 3x). Crossing a small shelf with bushes straight up (5a, x) to the belay point that is same as Pokljuska route. 10 m up through a chimney (3, x), again crossing bushes and up to a small chimney (5a, x) and straight up over a crack (piton, 2x) that leads to the last belay point that is the same as last belay point of Intenzivka.
Descent: by rappel 2x35m in 1x30m or continue up 20 meters and go left and around following a trail
Intenzivka and other routes (yellow = Bitka, orange = Intenzivka, black= Pokljuska route 4c, red = Violinca 6a, blue = Steber 5a, green = Vid's route 6a, orange far right = Jus route 5a)
Bitka and Intenzivka
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 Third pitch - slabs |
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