Grade: 6a, 130m . First climbed on 3.7.2021 by Tilen Kreft, Andrej Pečjak in Marko Žličar. 1st repeat Nejc in Julija Šter
Characteristics: bolted multi pitch route of constant grade and good rock
Ascent: From Vršiča mountain pass (could be reached by car from Kranjska gora or Trenta) straight up to the SE wall of Šitova glava (20 min)
Description: Lower part of the route is to the left of Pokljuska smer, crossing it in the middle and continuing straight up to the right of Pokljuska smer. First pitch could be skipped walking around it as it is just a grade 2 easy climbing (20m). Real climbing starts 5 meters to the left of Kamenko chimney over a perfect quality slightly overhanging crack (5c, spits). Going slightly to the left you reach a belay point on 2 spits. From there straight up slightly to the right over a slab protected by spits and one piton. Crossing Pokljuska you reach overhanging black rock protected by spits (6a). After this overhanging section continue climbing slab till you reach another belay point (spits, 50m). From that belay point continue slightly right and then straight up climbing crack (bolts, 6a) till you reach last belay point.
The name Intenzivka is dedicated to Jasna's struggle at Corona intensive care from november till february 2021, same the name of the other route "Bitka" that means "battle" or "struggle"
Descent: by rappel 2x35m in 1x30m or continue up 20 meters and go left and around following a trail
Intenzivka and other routes (orange = Intenzivka, black= Pokljuska route 4c, red = Violinca 6a, blue = Steber 5a, green = Vid's route 6a)
Drawing:
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 Third pitch, lower part |
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