Grade: 5b, 100m. First climbed: Andrej Pečjak and Marko Žličar, 10. 9. 2023. First repeat: Nejc and Julija Šter, 13. 9. 2023.
Characteristics: bolted multi pitch route of constant grade, good rock with some grass...
Ascent: From Vrsic mountain pass (could be reached by car from Kranjska gora or Trenta) straight up to the SE wall of Šitova glava (20 min)
Description: The route follows a pillar 10 meters to the left of the first rocky part where Bitka, Intenzivka and Pokljuska start. Climb easy part (3-4a, piton, x) up the pillar and climb a slab on the upper part towards left (4c, 3x). From there up a chimney to the first belay on a big rock. From there left 2m and up the slab (4c, 2x) to the grassy shelf and higher up a bit towards right to the bushes (5a, 2x). Above the bushes follow a shelf left up and then straight forward following a crack (5b, 3x). Over the last slab (x) to the belay point where the second pitch ends. To continue the third pitch climb up 5m (4a, x) and then follow the ridge (rope and x) towards the right. There is the last belay point on a horizontal rock. It is possible to rappel to the gorge from there or continue walking through the bushes by the ridge (50m)
Pitches: 1P 34m, 2P 32m, 3P 26m + 30m ridge (easy)
Descent: There are more possibilities:
- rappel by the route from 2nd belay (60m rope)
- rappel from the top (ridge - end of 3rd pitch) to the couloir on the right side. Continue rappeling the couloir till you get to the start point of the route: 4 pappels
- by walking: from the last belay continue 50 meters through the bushes on the ridge. From there down by a trail to Vrsic pass (30 minutes).
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 Last meters of the first pitch |
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Third pitch |
Summit ridge from where one can walk around or rappel |
